Last Updated on February 26, 2026
My sisters and I visited the Amalfi Coast recently for a quick birthday trip. I’m thankful my sister – the birthday girl – decided on this beautiful and thrilling destination to celebrate. Despite some clouds and rain during our stay, we had a great time exploring, shopping, eating, and drinking our fair share of limoncello spritzes along this stunning coast.
We based ourselves in Sorrento and Amalfi, took a day trip to Capri, visited Positano, and relied completely on trains, boats, and buses for transportation (driving here is not recommended). If you’re putting together your own Amalfi Coast itinerary, here’s exactly how we spent our time… the good, the bad, and the unforgettable.
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Day One: Rome to Pompeii to Sorrento
Pompeii
On our way from Rome to the Amalfi Coast, we made a detour to Pompeii to see the preserved ruins and artifacts uncovered after Mount Vesuvius buried the city in lava and ash in 79 AD. It was fascinating and sobering to see in person.
Pompeii is such an easy add-on to an Amalfi Coast itinerary because it’s right on the way. Just hop on the Circumvesuviana train as you travel through Naples and take it to the Pompeii Scavi station. From there, walk about two minutes to the entrance where there’s free luggage storage. Don’t get conned into paying for luggage storage as soon as you get off the train. The lockers at the entrance just a short walk away are so convenient, spacious, and free.
This is one place where it probably makes sense to take a guided tour. The city is massive and you don’t want to risk missing any of the important and interesting areas. Unfortunately, we tried to download a free audio tour and go it alone, but it kept cutting out and we couldn’t follow it. We ended up just using the free map we were given on the way in to locate some must-see sites.
Sorrento
After exploring a few hours, we continued on to Sorrento, arriving in the early evening. We found our Airbnb, which was located right on the main street and an easy walk from the train station. Sorrento is technically not on the Amalfi Coast, but it’s close – and it’s so beautiful and lively that it makes a perfect home base, especially if you plan to explore the island of Capri – which we planned to do the next day.
(Click here to read about the best towns to stay on the Amalfi Coast.)
We quickly realized how fun Sorrento is at night. Walking down the main street for dinner there was music in the piazza, people strolling the cobblestone streets, and plenty of restaurants to choose from. We ate outside at Aurora Ristorante and Pizzeria, people-watched, and soaked in the lively evening energy.
After dinner, we wandered the main street and nearby cobblestone side streets filled with shops, restaurants, and gelato. The highlight of the evening was listening to live music in the main square. One man with a guitar drew a big crowd as he played Hallelujah, Fast Car, U2, and Take Me Home Country Roads. People were dancing and singing along – it was a great ending to our first full day along the coast.
Day Two: Capri Day Trip from the Amalfi Coast
We were up early to walk to the marina and meet our captain for our day trip to Capri. It was a beautiful day – bright blue skies with a warm coastal breeze. That’s why it kind of surprised us when the captain told us the Blue Grotto was currently closed – a stop we wanted to make at the beginning of our day trip to avoid the crowds. It was expected to open up later in the morning, so we rode the high-speed boat and circled the island exploring the lush scenery first before heading to the Blue Grotto.
As we sailed around Capri, I was in awe of the dramatic cliffs – they were much taller than I expected – and incredibly beautiful. At one point the captain stopped the boat for a swim break, and I couldn’t pass up the chance to swim in the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea. Only two of us jumped in, but it was worth it – the water felt amazing.
The Blue Grotto
Later, we checked again and the Blue Grotto was open. This once-in-a-lifetime experience was high on my sister’s bucket list, and it was definitely an adventure. We transferred to a small rowboat and had to lie completely flat as we entered the small opening to the cave.
It was a bit nerve-wracking (I was sure the waves were going to spill over the side of the boat), but once inside, the glowing neon-blue water and the singing boatmen made it surreal. I wrote all about our Blue Grotto adventure here: The Blue Grotto on Capri: Trip It or Skip It?
On Capri
Afterward, our boat dropped us at the marina on Capri. We took a taxi up to Anacapri, navigating extremely steep, narrow roads. We had lunch – a yummy margherita pizza and a lemon spritz for me – then explored the island. With limited time, we didn’t get to see and do everything we wanted (click here to read about some of our challenges) but in all it was an enjoyable day.
On the ride back, the captain offered another swim stop (yes, I went again. This time my sister joined me) and we all enjoyed drinks as we cruised back to Sorrento.
Back in Sorrento
That evening, we went out to dinner at Piennolo, where I had the tastiest eggplant parmigiana. We finished the night with a stroll to the panoramic viewpoint and gelato before heading home, happy and exhausted.
Day Three: Sorrento to Amalfi (By Bus in the Rain)
We left our Sorrento apartment early to catch a bus to Amalfi. I had heard horror stories about the overcrowded and smelly SITA buses, but our experience riding the bus throughout our time on the Amalfi Coast was pleasant. It’s best to get to the bus stop early so you have time to buy your ticket before boarding (a must) and wait in line to get a seat on the bus.
In case you feel compelled to rent a car and drive on the Amalfi Coast – don’t. The roads are incredibly narrow with blind curves the entire way. Big buses take up most of the lanes and cars sometimes must stop, back up, and wait for the large buses to pass. I’m not sure how there aren’t more crashes around those narrow blind curves.
Amalfi
Rain set in by the time we arrived in Amalfi, but thankfully, our Airbnb host let us check in early. Once the rain slowed, we headed out to explore the town. We grabbed lunch and visited the Duomo di Amalfi where the Apostle Andrew is buried. This church is definitely worth a stop for the beautiful architecture and very old artifacts and history.
We then made our way to the beach. It was still a bit gray and overcast, but we sat at a beach bar and enjoyed limoncello spritzes.
We stayed there until the sun started to set and then made use of the beautiful golden hour backdrop for some fun photos.
Dinner that night wasn’t great (I can’t even remember the name of the restaurant), but being very tired, we called it an early night and went back to our Airbnb to rest up for Positano the next day.
Day Four: Positano and a Scenic Ferry Ride
Positano
Waking up to more gray clouds and a high chance of rain, we caught a 9:15 a.m. bus to Positano, hoping to explore before the rain. We got off at Chiesa Nuova and walked down to the coast, which meant a lot of steps and very narrow walkways.
As beautiful and unique as the cliffside town of Positano is, we immediately were glad we didn’t base ourselves here but chose the flatter Amalfi instead.
(Need help planning your trip to Italy? Click here.)
Halfway down, we stopped at Caffé Positano for breakfast, then continued toward the beach. We visited Santa Maria Assunta church, wandered the shops, and took pictures with the iconic pastel cliffside houses in the background.
The rain never quite came, and the sun actually started to peak out. We realized the ferries had started running, so we changed plans and took a ferry back to Amalfi instead of the bus. The ride was beautiful and scenic, and we were probably on one of the last ferries to take off because soon after the weather worsened.
Back in Amalfi
Back in Amalfi, we shopped for souvenirs and stopped at Gran Caffé for drinks. It started pouring rain, so we hung out inside the restaurant for a while sipping our fun drinks, laughing and enjoying each other’s company. While we would have preferred sunny blue skies the whole trip – the sporadic stormy weather forced us to slow down and just roll with it.
We did miss out on traveling up to the mountaintop village of Ravello, known for its dramatic seaside views, but the views wouldn’t have been worth it through the clouds and raindrops. If you have clear weather, I’d definitely include a visit to Ravello in your Amalfi Coast itinerary.
That night, we had dinner at Taverna Buonvicino, just up the steps from our place. It was a charming, intimate place that served excellent salmon, and then we enjoyed a gelato treat before heading back to our place. A fabulous last night on the Amalfi Coast.
Day Five: Sunrise and the Journey Home
We were up early to check out, and while walking to the bus station we were rewarded with beautiful sunrise views over the coast.
I do wish we had a bit more time to enjoy the Amalfi Coast now that the weather was clearing, but, alas, it was time to head home. We took the bus to Salerno, enjoying even more dramatic views from the road. I took this picture from inside the moving bus:
Once in Salerno, we parted ways to catch our own trains to the airport. I flew out of Naples while my sisters made their way back to Rome to fly home.
Key Takeaways From Our 4-Day Amalfi Coast Itinerary
Our Amalfi Coast itinerary felt like the perfect balance of sightseeing, downtime, and flexibility – even with the rain. Our two nights based in Sorrento and two in Amalfi were the perfect split. A few takeaways if you’re planning your own Amalfi Coast and Capri trip:
- Skip the rental car and use trains, ferries, and buses instead. I can’t emphasize this point enough. Some people even hire private drivers which isn’t a bad idea if you can swing it.
- Get up early and make use of the mornings – it makes a big difference in your itinerary.
- Stay flexible – weather can (and will) change plans.
- Limoncello spritzes are a good way to pass the time in the rain!
Traveling with my sisters made this trip especially memorable, and the Amalfi Coast delivered on both beauty and atmosphere even under cloudy gray skies. Have any questions or comments about our Amalfi Coast itinerary? Leave us a comment below. We’d love to hear from you!
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